Woo Hoo, it stands!
Woo Hoo, it stands!
I completed the second set of legs, sanded it all reasonably, knocked the edges off with a block plane, added a bit of stain and wiped on the sealer coat of shellac.
To be stable this clearly needs a second set of legs. Since I don’t know how (or have the skill to try it if I could figure out how) to add two more legs joining at the same junction on the pole, I decided that the second set of legs were for side to side support, and would not be bearing the bulk of weight.
How about adding two more legs, just the same, but shorter and lower?
No idea if this will work, but hey I know how now!
I am very pleased with these results!
After a soak in Evaporust it became evident that there were pin holes throughout the nickel plating. There was a fair bit of rust hiding under the nickel!
Since this plane is going to be USED, not collected, I decided to go for it and remove all the nickel in order to get the rust in its entirety.
A very light sanding on the tote and front knob followed by several coats of thinned shellac.
First a confession. Several people smarter than me have suggested that putting this on a stand is not a good idea. It’s heavy cast and is meant to be bolted to a beam. Baring any available beams, mounting it to the wall is best.
I guess I am stubborn, and I had already purchased some materials, so I have decided to press on with my crazy idea of a stand. If it all fails, I will have learned a few lessons — and have one heavy duty coat rack!
I am working with a laminated Oak 4×4, picked up from the local Menards store. I decided to cut the “beam” at 5 feet tall, just about right for the top stroke of the drill handle to be at shoulder height for me.
Using the cut off from the eight foot beam I cut two lets 18″ long each. I cut 45 degree angles on each end. They will be attached as legs with a long loose tenon thru the main beam and each leg.
This is my very first even Mortis and Tenon joint, so no laughing!!
The long tenon will be cut flush with the outside of each leg, then draw bored with 3/4 dowels.
Insert a post or something under the drill to support it while you assembly the rest of the drill.
Insert the bottom post/shaft into it’s place in the bottom of the main casting. Tighten it in place with the slotted set-screw.
Slide the drill table onto the shaft, tighten it in place with a square head set screw. Attach the bottom cast shaft support to the shaft also with a square head set screw.
Back together — at last!